During the peak of the Covid pandemic, most of northern China was under strict lockdowns, with rising case numbers and travel restrictions making movement nearly impossible. Southern China, by contrast, remained relatively calm. But even there, people were hesitant to travel. Still, after months of staying put, the desire to escape for just a short weekend was stronger than our fears.
We heard about a small city not far from where we lived, with great nature and surrounded by scenic mountains. One of them, apparently, was famous for resembling a phallus, a bizarre and oddly motivating detail that gave the place a certain local legend status. My teacher, who had studied there, vouched for it: peaceful, beautiful, and not crowded.
So, we packed our bags and made our way to Shaoguan.
Our plan was simple, arrive in the city, stay overnight, and head to the mountains the next morning. But Covid-era travel came with its own set of challenges. Although the south had fewer cases, fear still lingered. When we arrived at our booked hotel, they refused to host us. Me as foreigner, was seen as potential virus carriers, despite having been in China the whole time.
Not willing to give up, we jumped on shared e-bikes and rode from hotel to hotel, facing hesitant staff and nervous looks, until one place finally accepted us. Tired but relieved, we settled in for the night.
The next day, we made our way to the mountain area and suddenly, the world felt far away. The hotel there was almost completely empty. We were the only guests, and they kindly upgraded our room for free, since, well, they had the space. It felt like a reward for pushing through the hassle of the previous night.
The next two days were pure tranquility. We hiked steep, winding stairs that hugged the cliffs, surrounded by lush mountain views and total silence. It was occasionally a little scary, especially those narrow steps with no guardrails, but the reward at the top was always worth it. The landscape was dramatic, peaceful, and untouched.
Shaoguan gave us exactly what we had hoped for: space to breathe, a break from the stress of the pandemic, and a reminder that even during uncertain times, nature is always open. A heartfelt thank-you again to the kind hotel owner who welcomed us when others wouldn’t.
If you’re in Guangdong and looking for a quiet weekend away from the noise, I highly recommend Shaoguan. Just don’t forget your hiking shoes, and maybe ask about that famous mountain.
