Breathing Again
Lunar New Year 2023 was something special. It was the first one after all the lockdowns in China, and like many others, we were itching to get out, go far, and breathe some real air. Fresh air is the key point, so we booked flights to Northern Yunnan. Shangri-La, to be exact. The name alone sounded like the escape we needed.
The flight itself was already an adventure. We flew above towering mountains and through thick clouds, watching snow-dusted peaks rise beneath us like a dream. It felt like flying into a hidden world. When we landed, we were surprised we didn’t feel too much altitude sickness after all, Shangri-La sits at 3,200 meters above sea level. But the cold hit hard. It was early February, and winter hadn’t loosened its grip.
We felt the altitude, though, as soon as we had to climb the stairs to our second-floor hotel room. Never had two flights of stairs felt so exhausting. Inside, the hotel was warm and welcoming. The owner, his staff, and a few guests were gathered around a stove, chatting. We joined them with tea in hand, soaking in the quiet, the warmth, and the simple peace of that first evening.
The next morning, we wandered the old town for a bit, its wooden houses and prayer flags fluttering in the breeze, before heading out to the Songzanlin Monastery just outside the city. Built into the hillside, the walk up to it already offered breathtaking views, but the monastery itself, its towering golden roofs and deep, resonant silence left a lasting impression.
Later that day, we visited a wide lake on a mountain plateau. It was dry this time of year, but that only made it easier to walk through. Birds skimmed the surface, horses roamed, and the whole place felt like a dream. A quiet kind of magic.
Back in town, we grabbed a simple dinner and slept like rocks.
The following day took us deeper into the mountains, to another monastery surrounded by protected nature. The views were spectacular, but this time access was limited, we had to take a bus between the stops and only had short trails to explore. Still, I managed to gather a handful of wild juniper berries, which I still use in my cooking back home.
That night, we shared one last Tibetan meal and another chat around the stove in Shangri-La. Then it was time to move on.
Lugu Lake: Resting in Beauty
We hired a driver and made our way to Lugu Lake. The drive was as beautiful as the destination. Endless curves through misty hills, valleys opening into sun-drenched silence. At one point we stopped at a tiny farm gas station. A farmer had planted bananas right next to the pumps, and of course, we had to try them. Best bananas we’ve ever tasted.
At Lugu Lake, we let ourselves slow down. The lake sparkled between mountain ridges, its waters calm and wide. Our hotel sat right on the shore, a little more expensive than usual, but worth every cent. We spent two full days here doing almost nothing. Boat rides, gentle walks, reading by the water. Just what a holiday should be sometimes.
Lijiang: Ancient Streets and Firelight Dances
On the third day, we headed toward Lijiang. The road was yet again stunning. Yunnan never fails to impress. We arrived in the evening and dropped our bags in a hotel near the old town. Our search for dinner led us to a glowing square where locals danced around a fire. Among them was a Chinese-Mexican couple from a city near ours. What are the chances?
The next two days, we explored the ancient towns around Lijiang by scooter. We woke early, shivering in the mountain cold, and drove along winding roads lined with history and rose pastry stalls. Despite the weather, it was worth it. Two full days of learning, tasting, and riding through old tea roads and hillside villages.
Dali and Kunming: The Final Stretch
On Lunar New Year’s Day, we rolled into Dali. The old town was beautiful, no doubt about that, but the crowds were overwhelming. We spent one day elbowing through tourists, and the next walking quietly along Erhai Lake. Dali had the views, but not the peace we had come to love.
Our final stop was Kunming. We stayed two more days, just enough to explore a massive wetland park outside the city and stroll through the streets. Kunming was nice, green, and laid-back, but it felt more like other big Chinese cities. It lacked the wonder of Shangri-La or the stillness of Lugu Lake.
Going Home Full of Stories
When we flew back to Guangzhou, our legs were tired, our faces windburned, but our hearts full. Yunnan gave us everything we wanted after years of waiting—mountains, lakes, food, culture, and moments of quiet joy we’ll carry with us for a long time. And one thing’s for sure: we’ll be back.
